By Joseph Alexander

Jerry Walters, Docent and Chairman of Friends of the Forest Cultural Resources Committee
Recently, I visited V-Bar-V Ranch with Jerry Walters. He is the Chairman of the Cultural Resources Committee of Friends of the Forest, a volunteer service organization based in and around Sedona. The Friends of the Forest work closely with the Red Rock Ranger District of the Coconino National Forest, providing much needed support for the maintenance, protection and restoration of National Forest lands. The group’s diverse activities include archaeological, agricultural, trail and waterway maintenance and a host of other projects.
A docent is defined as “a person who is a knowledgeable guide, especially one who conducts visitors through a museum and delivers a commentary on the exhibitions.” Though not necessarily museums, the cultural heritage sites within the purview of the Coconino National Forest are just as important. Jerry oversees the Docents who guide visitors to the sites. This was my first visit to V-bar-V Ranch. In fact, before I volunteered with The Friends of the Forest, I had not heard of the site. It must be one of the best kept open secrets in this area.
Like the rest of the area around Sedona, it is an incredibly beautiful environment. But not graced by the iconic Red Rocks. Indeed, it is a flat grassy landscape near the Beaver Creek that has hosted agriculture for millennia, including the more recent tenures of people of European descent as stewards of Arizona lands. However, over the years, the farmers and homesteaders who came to this land were special. They knew they had something remarkable on their land and they protected it, only letting trusted people know about it. One may ask what would a Northern Arizona farm hold that is so special—a reasonable question. Even the current name of the site gives no hint to its treasure.
V-Bar-V ranch, once a working cattle ranch and farm, contains an important Native American heritage site. References on the internet mention the site having “petroglyhps” or “rock art.” These words are true, but do not do justice to the quiet majesty of the site. Upon entering what is left of the ranch (which has an interesting story in and of itself), a mile-long dirt path leads to a fenced-in area at the base of a cliff. The area is cooled by the large cottonwood trees and the nearby creek. At first glance, it looks like a piece of the familiar red sandstone was just plopped down in the field. But closer inspection reveals a craggy wall covered in hundreds of carvings. Anyone who has seen ancient cave paintings or carvings up close cannot help but be in awe that such simple expression can provide a glimpse into the distant past. I was content to admire the beauty of the carvings and guess at their meaning.
Thanks to Jerry, I didn’t spend much time guessing. Though we can not be exactly sure who made these carvings, the carvings at Honanki, or the paintings at Palatki, these pre-historic residents of the Verde Valley have been named “Sinagua.” Some believe they were related to the Zuni or were ancestors of the Hopi. They were farmers and traders whose water resource management prowess is still evident in the area. Pottery and other artifacts also provide clues about their culture. There is clear evidence that they were not the first people here and that they were well-spread out over this valley and that the cultural connection extended north beyond the valley.
Though ruins suggest settlements at 1.8 mile intervals along Beaver Creek, the site at the V-Bar-V Ranch is the largest known pertroglyph site in the Verde Valley. This suggests great, possibly ceremonial significance. The purpose of the site is one of many mysteries to be solved. Jerry has been visiting this site for years, but it is clear that it continues to fascinate him. I was most intrigued by a story he told me as he pointed out the various images carved in the stone.
It was uncharacteristically cloudy when we arrived, so the limited light helped me see the carvings in stark relief. However, when the early afternoon sunlight poked through the clouds, something magical happened. Two long parallel shadows formed a diagonal across the rock face as if it were a canvas. The rocks sitting in a crevice above suddenly became an active part of the artwork. Jerry explained to me how the previous chairman of the Cultural Committee made an archeoastronomical discovery, that the stones and petroglyphs comprise some type of calendar. Depending on the time of day and year, the shadows fell on or near certain carvings. The relationship between the stones and the carvings marks the solstices, the equinoxes and corn planting cycles.

A natural layer of “Desert Varnish” covers much of the stone face, highlighting the carvings

Close up reveals depictions of animals and humans with active Chakra points
Humans, animals, combinations of both, footprints, handprints, circles, and many other shapes fill the sandstone canvas like stars in the sky. The carvings took considerable time and effort since the natural “desert varnish” makes the stone much harder. The black varnish makes the carvings more distinct.
The carvings go high up the wall, indicating the use of ladders and even greater effort. Digging in recent years has revealed that the ground was once much lower, carvings along the rock face go much deeper and there are other indicators that this was a ceremonial and sacred space. It is good that Forest Service is treating it with respect.
Though words cannot fully express the experience, I can say that I caught Jerry’s bug after hearing his words. I am envisioning what it would be like to visit on a solstice, what it would be like to meditate here, what it must have been like before the trees. Jerry says I should visit again, while a group is being guided, so that I can learn from some of the interesting questions or comments that visitors share when they pass through. I appreciate that subtle note of wisdom he shared with me. Even after many years, he keeps his eyes open to see something new at the site and he keeps his ears open to hearing something new, even when serving as a guide. Only good teachers know that they never stop being students, so I trust that I am in good hands.

A stand of large Cottonwood trees near Beaver Creek conceals a historical treasure
May 31, 2011
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